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Friday, 10 April 2009
Choosing the right blush brush
Topic: Brushes

Do you REALLY need more than one blush brush?  Yes!

Different brushes accomplish different finishes based on the type and pigmentation of the blush used. Below are are four common blush brush shapes and how to best work with each of them.

1. Flat top buffer brush: These brushes are generally used for loose mineral makeup, but I find that they work brilliantly with matte pressed blushers.  When you want to have a very natural/very organic "I glow from within" look,  this brush buffs the color completely into your cheeks.  A word of warning though  - only use this with matte blush.  When used with shimmery, metallic or mineralized finishes, these brushes can accentuate large pores and age you by a decade.

2. Basic rounded brush: These all purpose powder brushes can be used for both powder foundation and level application of any type of blush (loose, pressed, matte, shimmer or cream).  I use this to apply full color all over the cheeks and to apply highlighters to the apples of my cheeks.  If you have a round or heart shaped face, this especially,  may be your most often used brush. 

3. Angled brush: Whew - they can be deadly if not used correctly.  These are meant to contour gently, NOT like this: 

When using this, you want to lightly apply the color at 45ish degree angle (depending on your face shape) and sweep from cheeks to hairline. If you find the color is too harsh, gently go over the line with a kabuki brush to fade it out.  Angled blush brushes can also be used to highlight the  bridge of the nose and area between the eyes and cheeks - feel for the bone and apply a highlighter there.  I also use this to take 5 pounds off my face - make a fish face and put a dark, matte powder in the hollows of the cheeks.

4. Stippling/Skunk brush: This brush is a workhorse and can be used for powder or cream blushes (in addition to liquid foundation).  I prefer to use these for highly pigmented blushers - scary ones that can go very wrong if overused.  NARS Exhibit A is a bright red blush that walks dangerously on a line between high fashion and clown makeup.  The only difference between looking foolish and looking hot is in application and a stippling brush can save you from a world of shame.

5. Kabuki brush: I rarely use this to apply blush, but frequently use it to "calm down" a blush that's too bright or to blurr the lines between blush/highlighter/contour color.   If you have an MSF or Shimmerbrick that's too glittery, this can help buff out some of the shimmer.  I'll discuss the kabuki more in my section on foundation brushes.

6. Fan brush:  Similar to a stippling brush, this can be used to delicately apply pigmented blushes.  It can also be used to add subtle highlights to the temples and chin.

I hope this helps someone!  Feel free to post any questions below.


Posted by theworldsdresser at 12:01 AM EDT
Updated: Friday, 10 April 2009 11:09 AM EDT
Tuesday, 24 March 2009
Part II: e.l.f. Studio Line - Brushes
Topic: Brushes

I'm addicted to brushes and can never seem to have enough.  If you read yesterday's post, you know that I've previously found ALL of e.l.f.'s brushes to be horrible save one: the eyeshadow brush.  It was with a heavy heart that I tried the new Powder and Complexion Brushes and thank goodness I did.

These new brushes are made with the synthetic material, Taklon, giving them an extremely soft feel.  The hairs are densely packed - so even though the fibers are soft on the face, they are stiff enough to give you good color placement.  As for length, they are in the "sweet zone," not too long and not too short, just right. Here, you can see them next to a MAC 129 (my everyday blush brush) for reference:

The powder brush is perfect for those who use powder foundations as it provides full "doll face" coverage.  I absolutely love this and will be buying a few more .  The Complexion Brush is less spectacular, but still pretty good.  This gives a more natural finish, earthy, finish and would look great for those who use finishing powder or MSF Naturals for foundation.  To clarify, Complexion Brush = Day Makeup, Powder Brush = Night Makeup (unless you're from the South, where we love our "doll face.")

As with everything in the Studio Line, the brushes are only $3. I can't get over it.  As I type this, I remain stunned.  These are really, REALLY good.  They hold up well after washing and are also 100% recyclable.  You can get these from eyeslipsface.com, but remember to use the code CAROLINA for 50% off.  Shipping took about a week and was around $5.  Get these, they're great!

Posted by theworldsdresser at 12:01 AM EDT
Updated: Tuesday, 24 March 2009 5:16 PM EDT
Wednesday, 11 March 2009
Concealer Brush
Topic: Brushes

Generally speaking, I hate standard concealer brushes.  I find that the usual paddle shaped ones make concealing hard.  Instead, eye shadow blending brushes tend to make the concealer disappear into my skin. I mainly use a MAC 217 with liquid concealers, but after switching to a cream based one I needed something with a more weight behind it. My answer was found in Revlon's Contour Shadow Brush.

As you can see, the brush is quite long - coming in at a full inch longer than the MAC 217.  Here's a comparison shot of the two brush heads:

The 217 splays out wider while Revlon provides a bit more precise application.

The bristles are made of synthetic hairs and are a stiffer than the 217, which works in its favor as a concealer brush.  As far as liquid  blending, the 217 wins everytime,  but when using a cream concealer, the Revlon Contour Shadow brush is the way to go.   This brush can be found at Walmart for under $7.


Posted by theworldsdresser at 9:23 AM EDT
Updated: Monday, 23 March 2009 1:49 PM EDT

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The World's Dresser is written by Pamela, a Hampton Roads Makeup Artist. To book her services, click the box below




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